August

For me, August is the summer month. Long, hot, lazy days; summer holidays; barbecues. It’s a month to try to enjoy the weather and relax. But August can often be a hard month for the garden. After weeks of predominantly warm and dry weather many plants start to feel the strain, and then many of us chose to take a few days away on holiday, leaving our gardens to their own devices…

Plants
The August garden can, nevertheless, be a generous fellow if there’s a good mix of planting. Many of the stars of July will still be rewarding us, notably the Geranium, Lavandula, Penstemon, and Alchemilla mollis (Lady’s mantle), but now they’re joined by a host of other attractions. Perovskia (Russian Sage) offers good height and colour, as does Verbena bonariensis, and Foeniculum vulgare ‘Purpureum (Bronze fennel). The fennel is a great value plant, with clouds of airy foliage, small yellow flowers, and superb fresh-smelling scent. Elsewhere, Buddleja (Butterfly bush) is a great ‘crowd-pleaser’ much beloved by a host of insects, and Leycesteria formosa will give pleasure to people and birds alike with its pendulous flowers and shiny purple fruits.

This is also a great month for ornamental grasses, with many looking their best in August and September. The Miscanthus family is large, and there should be one for just about every taste. Try Miscanthus sinensis ‘Kleine Silberspinne’ (a bit of a mouthful, I know, but well worth having), for graceful grey-green foliage and red-tinged flower panicles. Like most grasses, it ‘dances’ and rustles in the slightest breeze, and provides welcome height and structure. We often find that clients are nervous of grasses, but surely there aren’t many gardens that would not benefit from a few carefully selected grasses as part of a mixed planting scheme.

Finally, a star plant in August is Hemerocallis (Day lilly). Contrary to its common name, the flowers on most Hemerocallis do last longer than one day, and their wonderfully graceful flowers add colour and interest to any garden. My favourite is Hemerocallis ‘Stella d’Oro’, which has fantastic deep-yellow flowers with orange ‘throats’. Alternatively, try H. ‘Bess Vestal’ for bright maroon flowers with yellow markings. Beautiful.

Jobs
If the weather is as it should be in August, there’s little in the way of day-to-day tasks other than keeping up with the watering of pots and food crops. If you are planning a holiday, I suggest that you mow and edge the lawn before you go, and make sure that everything is well fed and watered. A general-purpose liquid feed is a useful regular ‘pick-me-up’ for most pots and hanging baskets throughout the summer months, and a good feed before you go away should help to tide most things through in your absence. If you will be away for a while, moving pots to areas of dappled shade can also help.

If you have a greenhouse, then August is often the most prolific month in terms of cropping. Keep on top of collecting the fruits of your labour- tomatoes and cucumber, in particular, benefit from regular picking, as do outdoor crops like courgettes and beans. Nothing beats the crispness and glorious taste of freshly-picked home-grown produce, and if you haven’t grown your own this year do try to do so next year- it’s really easy to do, and so rewarding for adults and children alike.

Whatever the weather, enjoy all that the August garden has to offer.

Summer holiday anyone?

Now, strange as it may sound, I have heard of some ‘dedicated’ gardeners who refuse to take a holiday over the summer because they fear that their garden might suffer in their absence. Much as I love my garden, I can’t think of a time when that would stop me escaping for my much-anticipated summer break, particularly when over the last couple of years it hasn’t stopped raining whilst we’ve been away. I do appreciate, however, that it can be a concern for many, and so I thought it might be timely to make a few suggestions for how those of us lucky enough to be taking a break this summer might be able to ensure that our gardens stand the best possible chance of surviving whilst are away.

1. POTS: of all the plants in your garden, it is those that are in containers that face the biggest risks. This is principally because they rely on regular watering for their survival, and can dry out really quickly. If you don’t already use a mulch with your pots, then do consider it- even a simple layer of gravel over the surface of the soil will really help to reduce evaporation from your soil, particularly if it is applied after a really good watering. Remember, too, the importance of standing your pots on suitable saucers or trays to retain some water beneath the plant. Finally, if at all possible think about moving your pots to a sheltered and shady location to minimise their exposure to direct sun and wind. Group potted plants together if you can to provide extra protection and localised humidity.

2. HANGING BASKETS: these are often even more vulnerable than regular pots or containers, because they tend to have a proportionally smaller soil to plant ratio. They also tend to be full of particularly hungry and demanding plants. It’s usually good practice to add water retaining crystals or gels with the compost or soil used in hanging baskets, but these are even more important during spells when watering will be (at best) intermittent. If you don’t have a neighbour willing neighbour to spare a few minutes every other day to water your baskets for you, I would really encourage you to take them down whilst you’re away and treat them as the pots described above.

3. GENERAL BORDER PLANTING: plants planted directly in the ground usually stand a much better chance of surviving a dry warm spell because their root systems have direct access to the water in the ground. Once again, however, a mulch can be a useful addition, with general purpose compost (homemade if possible) probably serving best. It will feed the soil whilst retaining a great deal of moisture.

4. GREENHOUSES: another vulnerable area, especially when full of those tender tomato plants. If you’re going to be away for more than a few days it’s very difficult to keep a greenhouse self-sufficient in terms of water, but do think about ensuring that there’s adequate ventilation, and perhaps also some artificial shade (netting can work well). If nothing else, ensure that all pots are standing in shallow trays, and do give everything a good feed just before you go away.

5. LAWNS: tempting though it might be, don’t ‘scalp’ the lawn just before you leave. Doing so will only encourage rapid new growth (grass often grows more quickly if it is cut very hard), and will leave the lawn more vulnerable to dry spells. Instead, I would recommend putting the mower on its highest setting for the last cut before your break, and also for the first cut after your return.

There you are…a few simple tips to help you to take a well-earned summer break safe in the knowledge that your garden stands a chance of managing whilst you’re away. Enjoy your holiday!

Getting to grips with roses…

Ask anyone to describe a typical English garden and I’m prepared to guess that many would mention roses. Few plants are more evocative of long hot summer days full of heady perfume and glorious colour, and surely every garden should have one? Well, actually, we tend to find that many people are resistant to the idea of including a rose as part of their planting schemes, mainly because they consider them to be too difficult to grow or too much work to maintain. This really isn’t the case though, but as many roses will start to finish flowering over this month, I thought it would be opportune to offer a quick guide to successful rose pruning:

1. PRUNE NOW? As a basic guide, regardless of whether your rose is a climber or forms more of a bush, if it flowers only once (that is, it flowers over a relatively short period of time rather than keeping producing new flowers for more than a month or so) then it is good idea to prune it after it has finished flowering (leave repeat-flowering roses until the spring). Exactly when flowering finishes varies slightly from rose to rose, and is dependent upon weather conditions, but it usually tends to happen at some point in July. One note of caution, however. If your rose bears attractive hips in the autumn or winter then you may want to wait until late winter before you prune because cutting now will remove the hips before they have a chance to develop.

2. WHY PRUNE? Pruning has a number of benefits, including being quite therapeutic for the gardener. In essence, the chief motivation is to ensure that the plant maintains a healthy shape and habit with a view to encouraging many subsequent years of flowering. A second, equally important rational, is the fact that pruning provides a great opportunity to remove any dead, damaged, or diseased stems, thereby reducing the risks of disease spreading to other parts of the plant.

3. HOW TO PRUNE: put simply, all we’re really trying to do is to give the plant a really good ‘deadhead’. Many gardeners are perfectly comfortable with the term, but for those who aren’t deadheading is simply the process of removing spent flowers. This is done to improve the visual appearance of the plant, but also to prevent it from deploying too much energy trying to set seed (energy which could be better used setting stronger stems and roots, or simply replenishing itself for the following year). The biggest mistake many people make when deadheading is to be too timid. It’s not enough, for example, to simply take off just the flower head, but rather the aim should be to follow the stem back approx 10cm and cut just above a healthy leaf or young side stem. Cutting too far away above a healthy point of new growth will only encourage weak growth, or worse die-back within the stem.

4. SHRUB ROSES OR ‘OLD FASHIONED’ ROSES: naturally bush-forming in habit, these roses vary from tall and straggly to neat and compact. The later only require the sort of strong deadheading mentioned above, whilst the former merit slightly more enthusiastic treatment: cut back to a healthy leaf or side shoot rather further down the stem (up to half the height of the plant if necessary) to maintain the desired shape and size.

5. CLIMBERS & RAMBLING ROSES: the main aim here is to maintain a healthy structure for the following year, so look to prune out as much of the current year’s growth (you can usually tell because this year’s stems will still be green in colour whereas previous growth tends to be brown) as required to ensure that the plant will be manageable next year. If need be, cut back to within 15cm of the main framework of the plant. If, however, a stem is going in a direction you’re happy with (say, over an arbour or along a wall) then leave rather more of the main stem intact and simply deadhead as described above. And please don’t worry too much about pruning if your rose is merrily climbing a tree- leave it to find its own way rather than risk injury by trying to prune at heights.

So there you have it- hopefully not too complicated or daunting. Roses, as with other garden plants, are there to give us pleasure. There’s no reason why a little pruning on a nice summer’s day shouldn’t be part of that pleasure, just remember to wear a decent pair of gloves…

Double bubble!

The chances are that your garden looks pretty good as we go into June. Certainly, many of the plants many of us like to grow begin to look their best at about this time of year. Herbaceous favourites like Geraniums, Heucheras, and Alchemilla all flower readily during early to mid- summer providing a mass of colour and interest. The same cannot be said, however, during the second part of the season. All too many of our best-performers tend to disappoint in July and August, seemingly under the mistaken belief that their ‘job is done’. But did you know that with a little basic work you can encourage them to flower for a second time? Did you also know that this repeat flowering will be perfectly timed to give the mixed-border a welcome boost of colour just at the right time of the year? Today, I want to tell you how you can quickly and easily revitalise some of our best perennials, and reap the rewards later in the summer.

Keep an eye on your borders over the next couple of weeks, because its about now that many herbaceous perennials will start to finish flowering and attempt to set seed. It’s at this point that we can get to work. At its most basic level, the idea is to simply remove the spent flowers and a good proportion of the foliage to try to encourage the plant to generate new growth and (hopefully) new flowers. Think of it as rather radical ‘dead-heading’, or even in terms of a hungry animal grazing on your favourite plants (although try not to think of the pesky rabbits or you’ll probably find your blood-pressure rising alarmingly!).

It’s really simple to do: simply gather as much of the foliage as you can in one hand and then cut the stems away with a sharp pair of secateurs at about 7-10cm (3-4”) above ground level. Obviously be careful not to catch your fingers as you do it, but do try to ensure nice clean cuts. The resulting ‘tuft’ will look a little odd to start with, but new growth should start to appear after just a few days and the plant will quickly start to look rejuvenated. It’s a good idea to give the newly-shorn plants a good watering, and a liquid general-purpose feed wouldn’t go amiss (but isn’t essential).

It’s important to stress that cutting back like this is by no means a ‘must-do’ job, so don’t worry if you haven’t the time or the inclination to follow this advice- your plants will happily re-grow and perform again next year as usual whether or not you decide to give them a ‘haircut’ now. But I’d strongly recommend that you try it- if nothing else, the border will quickly look more ‘cheerful’ and less tired because you’ve removed old growth and flower heads, but all being well a second burst of flower should quickly follow. Go on, give it a go this year…

Gardening…on the level

OK, perhaps this isn’t the catchiest title for an article, but as so many of us live with gardens that have at least one change of level within them I’d like to discuss the ‘joy of levels’ today. I’m delighted to say that we’re having a really busy year, and a very good proportion of the gardens we’ve been asked to design have involved a slope or the need for some kind of terracing or steps. A change of level can be a real asset to a garden, often providing an opportunity to add some interest and a sense of direction. It is, however, very important to carefully consider the important issues associated with level changes in order to ensure the garden is successful. Obviously, no two gardens are ever the same, but here’s my guide to managing the key aspects of levels:

1. PRACTICALITIES: whatever the nature of your change of level, whether it be a slope up or down away from the house (or even a fall from side to side), your garden must be practical. There’s no point in creating a beautifully manicured lawn if you can’t see it or get to it quickly and easily (not to mention getting the lawnmower to it!). Think about access to the main areas of the garden- can all members of the family reach them comfortably and efficiently?

2. STEPS: if you need to incorporate steps within your garden always bear safety in mind. It’s generally advisable to ensure that garden steps are gentle, low and wide. The treads (horizontal) and risers (vertical) of steps should preferably be consistent in terms of dimensions (ideally between 80-170mm for risers and a minimum of 350mm for treads), as this helps to prevent accidental trips or stumbles. Think too about materials- will you use stone paving, bricks, timber, or gravel (only for the treads, of course)? All can work well, but do ensure that materials are consistent and stable.

3. TERRACING: terracing can be an effective solution for larger level changes. Essentially, terracing involves dividing a slope into ‘chunks’ of level ground, with a step (or steps) between each. This could be a formal ‘step’ constructed of brick, or rather less formal using timber. Visually, terracing can work well, but do bear in mind the practicalities of mowing if you choose to terrace a lawned area.

4. RAMPS: there are several circumstances where a ramp may be preferable to steps. Ramps provide easier access for wheelchair users, as well as for children (much more fun on a bicycle or go-kart!) or even simply for lawnmowers or wheelbarrows. A paved ramp can make a strong ‘visual statement’, but so can one covered by turf. Do bear in mind the all-important practicalities or ramps, however, and ensure that the gradient of your ramp is no steeper than 1:10 (or even 1:12 for regular wheel-chair use). In addition, make provision for removing surface water (ideally across a ramp into a drainage channel) so as to help prevent a build-up of ice in the winter.

5. PLANTING: planting a slope, bank, or terrace can be a rewarding experience, and a good way of using a ‘difficult’ area. Once again, it’s important to remember the practicalities- will you be able to safely maintain the planting on a very steep slope? Remember that bark mulches (often a useful way of suppressing weeds) could be difficult to retain on too step a level change, and that rain water can wash topsoil away if a slope is too exposed. Don’t rule out planting, though, because well-considered shrub or groundcover planting can be a very effective way of stabilising the ground and making the most of a graded change of level.

So there you have it- just a few things to consider if, like many of our current clients, you live with a garden with level changes. Handled carefully, a change of level can be a real plus point, so why not see how you can make the most of yours?

Herbs for everyone

Now as I write this in early January the snow is falling heavily and the garden looks beautiful. The veg bed is frozen solid, and the lawn is covered under a thick blanket of white, but there’s one part of the garden that continues to be useful to me- the herb garden. OK, I do have to brush off the snow, and some of the leaves are encased in ice, but the bounty the herb garden provides makes it a vital destination for me whatever the weather.

I only have modestly-sized garden (much smaller than many of the gardens I design and build for my clients) and so I have only dedicated a single raised bed to growing herbs. But even with a restricted space, a herb garden can really pay dividends and so I thought I would take this opportunity to tell you about my favourites:

1. Sage (SALVIA): a really strong and reliable performer, sage is invaluable to the cook as a flavouring for stuffings and pork dishes. Very easy to grow, sage is a perennial that will generally look after itself. Great for attracting the bees as well.

2. Thyme (THYMUS): thyme is great for adding flavour to soups, stocks or roasts. Mainly low-growing, there are many different thyme varieties, each with a subtly different scent and flavour. Low-growing thymes are also superb as ground-cover at the front of sunny borders.

3. Mint (MENTHA): another herb with many varieties to try. Perfect for adding flavour to salads or desserts, when boiling or steaming vegetables, or even with a gin and tonic. Mint is a vigorous grower with a habit of taking over, so it’s a good idea to keep its roots contained by a large pot sunk in to the border.

4. Oregano (OREGANUM): I believe that fresh oregano is infinitely better tasting than the dried version offered by the supermarkets. Shred the leaves on pizza or pasta dishes for a real ‘taste of the sun’. Another easy-to-grow perennial.

5. Basil (OCIMUM): the taste of the Mediterranean for me, basil is a tender annual that needs warmer temperatures to thrive. Grow from seeds in a greenhouse or on a warm windowsill, and take out into the garden only when the warmer days are here. Enjoy shredded in pasta dishes or salads, or simply wrapped around a tomato. Delicious.

6. Bay (LAURUS nobilis): a ‘must-have’ for many keen cooks, bay leaves add wonderful flavour to stews, casseroles, or roasts. Bay is an attractive and easy-to-grow shrub that is usually much tougher than people give it credit for. I much prefer to use freshly-picked leaves when I’m cooking than the dried alternatives, so why not add a bay tree or two to your garden this year?

7. Lavender (LAVANDULA): perhaps not everyone’s first choice for a herb garden. But lavander offers us far more than pretty flowers and a scented haven for bees. The flowers are edible and wonderful when used sparingly in cakes and biscuits, as well as some savoury dishes. I’ve just searched for ‘cooking with lavender’ on Google and it came back with 340,000 results! Why not give it a try?

Of course, there are many more herbs available to us, and I’m sure that you’ll have your favourites that haven’t appeared here (I’ve not even mentioned dill, coriander, parsley or fennel, for example). The point is that we can all grow a few herbs regardless of how much space we’ve got in our gardens or on our patios. Give them a try this year- they’ll add so much to your garden and kitchen that I’m sure you’ll be glad you did.

Ian

Christmas- ‘tis the season to be busy?

What a wonderful time of the year. I love Christmas and most things that go with it. After a busy year, I really welcome the chance to relax, and enjoy a rest, and spend time with my family and friends. I have to admit, however, that I can start to get a little ‘twitchy’ if I don’t get outside at some point over the festive period. It builds slowly, but usually comes to a head about three or four days after Christmas day. I could go for a good long walk, but somehow that doesn’t seem to quite cut it. I much prefer to busy myself in the garden. Somehow the opportunity to get wrapped up warm, to be outside, and to indulge in a little hard work, really seems to have a wonderfully restorative effect.

So, in the hope that it’s not just me who finds the need to escape ‘mid-festivities’, here are my five favourite jobs for late December:

1. Prune fruit trees: apples and pears, in particular, benefit from a mid-winter prune. The basic idea is to achieve a healthy framework of branches with plenty of airflow, and if you think ‘wineglass-shape’ as you work you shouldn’t go far wrong. As with most pruning tasks, it’s a good idea to start by removing any of the three D’s- that’s dead, damaged, or diseased material. Then stand back, maybe have a cup of tea, and then slowly work your way around the tree taking back stems to create a goblet shape. Try to cut back to an outward-facing bud to encourage open growth rather than a congested centre.

2. Plant trees or hedges: OK, this probably isn’t going to be a ‘spur of the moment’-type job because many garden centres and plant nurseries will be closed for a period over Christmas, but if you do want to plant a new tree or hedge now is a pretty good time. Providing the soil is workable, dormant trees and hedges really benefit from winter planting, and will be ready to take advantage of the start of spring. What better way of creating structure in the garden can there be than adding a new tree or hedge?

3. Move trees or shrubs: similarly, the winter period is the perfect time to move dormant plants. Again you need the soil to be workable, and I would suggest that it’s a good idea to wait if a very heavy frost is forecast so as to avoid damaging too many fibrous roots. Prepare a hole in the new location before lifting the plant with as much of its root system intact. Water well regardless of the time of year, and stake, if required, to provide support until the roots get a grip in their new hold.

4. Winter digging: now I don’t really subscribe to the concept of excessive digging (and indeed my own vegetable garden is of the raised ‘no-digging’ variety), but if you have an area of soil that needs preparing then now is the perfect time. Heavy clay soils, in particular, benefit from winter digging because the frosts can do a great job at breaking down large clods of sticky soil. Winter digging can also help because turning over the soil exposes any pests and diseases that may be lurking beneath the cold surface that bears the brunt of ground frosts.

5. An early spring-clean: perhaps not the most glamorous of tasks, but useful all the same. Thoroughly cleaning out sheds and greenhouses now can really pay dividends in the growing season because it helps to reduce any build-up of pests or disease. By the same token, cleaning (and repairing, if necessary) your tools and washing out pots and seed trays allows you to be ‘one step ahead’ when the warmer days of spring arrive. Go on, I promise it will be worth it.

That’s it. I realise that gardening may not be everyone’s idea of seasonal fun, but these sort of jobs do provide a great opportunity to get outside and do something physical to help burn-off some of the festive excesses. And who’s to say that when you’ve finished in the garden you can’t go back inside to maybe indulge in a little more excess. After all, you’ve earned it!

Merry Christmas to you all, and here’s to a fantastic new year.

Ian

Container gardening (pots, pans, anything really…)

Most of us have at least one or two plants growing in pots. Whether it’s to decorate a front door or porch, or to provide a welcome boost of colour in an otherwise quiet part of the garden, attractive planters can enhance most spaces. There are, however, a few things to bear in mind when planning to grow things in pots, or when thinking about how to revive a tired looking container display. So, in the hope of encouraging you to give your planters some tlc, here are my top tips for container gardening…

1. Start with the right pot: it may sound obvious, but its really important to chose an appropriate container for the plant or plants you intend to grow. Small pots are limiting in terms of what you can grow, and will often require more maintenance in terms of watering and feeding. Oddly shaped planters can be interesting to look at, but do think about how you’ll be able to remove the plant if and when it is time for a change.

2. Compost or soil?: once again this may seem obvious, but chose your growing medium carefully. In some circumstances many general-purpose compost mixes may be too light to retain sufficient moisture on their own, so a heavier soil-based compost may be a better option. If in doubt, consider how long you intend to keep the plants in the pot, and how often you’ll be able to maintain it.

3. Keep moist: pots rarely catch enough rainfall to maintain themselves and so, particularly in the warmer months, you will need to think about watering. Adding water-retaining crystals can really help, as can providing a decorative mulch (commonly gravel or slate chippings) over the surface of the soil to reduce moisture being lost by evaporation. Finally, remember to not fill your planter with too much compost or soil- if it is too full water will simply run-off before it has had time to reach your plant’s roots.

4. Keep dry: once we’ve got to grips with keeping our plants moist, we then have to think about the danger of too much water. To avoid water-logging it is essential that your planter has drainage holes in its base, and adding a layer of gravel (or a similar ‘loose’ material’) to the bottom of the pot prior to adding your compost or soil can also really help. Polystyrene packaging material can also be good for this.

5. Keep things!: Expensive looking pots can prove attractive to thieves, so try to discourage opportunists by adding extra weight to your planter. A large amount of gravel or stone in the bottom of the container can really help, but ensure that free drainage is maintained. You might even consider bolting it to the ground if this is an option. Remember, adding weight can also help to stabilise top-heavy pots.

6. Feeding: providing a regular source of nutrients is vitally important. Compost is quickly exhausted, particularly during the summer months with increased watering. Consider adding slow-release fertilisers, or provide a regular granular or liquid general-purpose feed. At the very least, replace the top layer of compost with fresh material every now and again.

7. Maintenance: finally, keep an eye on your plants for signs of problems. A change in the general appearance of your plants could be a sign that a larger pot is required, or that its time for a feed. Pests and diseases can also be just as much of a problem for containerised plants, as can the dreaded weeds.

Hedges- what, why, when

As autumn begins to stamp it’s authority I thought I would take this opportunity to talk about hedges. I do so for two reasons: firstly because we are coming up to the most opportune period of the year to buy and plant hedging, and secondly because as the colour and variation of the summer fades it is about now that we often start to more clearly see the ‘bare bones’ or structure of a garden. Hedges can be a really important element in a garden, offering us screening, partitions, windbreaks or backdrops. A well-positioned hedge can effectively disguise an ugly or unpleasant feature (think oil tanks, or perhaps a neighbour’s garage wall), or can help lead the eye to a favourite view or focal point.

But what hedge to choose? Which would be the best option for your garden? Here is a selection of my favourite hedges:

1. BUXUS sempervirens (box): the classic low hedge, Buxus is a small-leafed evergreen that benefits from regular clipping. It’s enormously useful as a means of adding a touch of structure and ‘formality’, and nothing looks better than a box hedge with a frost or a dusting of snow. Plant at a ratio of 5-8 plants per metre, and clip at least once a year.

2. TAXUS baccata (yew): not as slow to grow as is commonly thought, a yew hedge makes a fantastic dense evergreen screen. Its small dark green foliage makes it a perfect backdrop for floral planting, and once established it will thrive. Avoid very wet soils, and do be aware that it is toxic if eaten (so not a good choice for areas near horses or livestock). Plant at approx 45cm spacing, and clip as required (avoiding frosts).

3. FAGUS sylvatica (beech): another classic choice for a tall screen, beech makes an interesting hedge. It is deciduous, but the old leaves will often remain on the plant well into winter (a will provide a lovely rustling noise when the wind blows). Available as either a green or bronze hedge, beech is particularly suited to freely draining soils (for wetter soils CARPINUS (hornbeam) provides a similar appearance). Plant at approx 45cm spacing, and clip as required (avoiding frosts).

4. LAVANDULA angustifolia ‘Hidcote’ (lavender): an attractive low-growing hedge, lavender provides evergreen foliage, long-lived flowers, and delicious fragrance. It’s perfect as the edging to a path, although it does have a tendency to become woody or ‘leggy’ over time. To manage this, clip the plants once in the autumn (removing the flower stalks and a little of the current year’s growth) and then again in spring (removing the rest of the previous year’s growth). Plant at approx 20-30cm spacing.

5. Mixed hedgerow: the traditional choice for dividing fields, a good mixed hedge contains an attractive combination of plants that are superb for wildlife (most commonly including beech, field maple, holly, quickthorn and blackthorn). A good choice for an informal or ‘wildlife-friendly’ area of a garden, or for a boundary between a garden and a field or woodland. Plant a mix of species at approx 30-45cm spacing, and clip as required.

So there you have it- certainly not an exhaustive list, of course, but a good selection of hedging options with something for most gardens…and not a Leylandii in sight! Why not consider planting a new hedge this winter?

Water, water…part 2

Last time I wrote about the role water features can play in the garden. This month, and given the weather extremes we’ve been having in recent weeks, I thought it would be useful to talk about how we can manage water in the garden to keep our gardens going. Despite the last two rather wet summers, I think it is really important that we try to reduce the amount of mains water we use, so the following tips for saving and using water should hopefully help us all to make more of this precious resource.

Saving water:

1. Water butts: a wide range of different shape, size and style of water butts are now available, and so there is probably at least one that will appeal to every gardener. Don’t forget that lots of rainwater can be collected from the roofs of sheds and greenhouses so why not think about additional water butts here?

2. Teamwork: if you have the space, why not join together two or more water butts together to increase the amount of water you are able to collect? Kits to do this are readily available at garden centres and DIY stores, and installing them is a quick and easy process.

3. Safety first: don’t forget that any water can be dangerous to children and pets, and water butts are no exception. Ensure that tight fitting lids are maintained appropriately, and that butts are always installed on level and stable ground.

Using water carefully:

1. Timings and priorities: watering plants at the start or end of the day is better because less water is lost through evaporation whilst the day is at its warmest. Equally important, however, is the way that you prioritise your watering. Plants in containers (including hanging baskets if you have them) should usually be first because they tend to be most susceptible to drought conditions, followed by any food crops (whether in a greenhouse or out in ‘open ground’).

2. The right plants: choose ‘drought-tolerant’ plants that are better able to cope with dry spells. I firmly believe that most shrubs or perennials should not need watering after they’ve got through their first summer, but it is important to help them establish a good root system before letting them survive on their own.

3. Under cover: think about using a mulch to retain moisture in the soil. Compost, gravel or bark can all be used effectively for this, and laid as a blanket over the soil they will really help to reduce evaporation.

So there you have it. Water ‘management’ is vitally important to a healthy garden, and there really is no need to waste water, or rely too heavily on mains water supplies. Enjoy your garden, and the challenge of using water effectively.